Below is an explanation of this system's operation


Master Cylinder


The master cylinder displaces hydraulic pressure to the rest of the brake system. It holds THE most important fluid in your car, the brake fluid. It actually controls two seperate subsystems which are jointly activated by the brake pedal. This is done so that in case a major leak occurs in one system, the other will still function. The two systems may be supplied by seperate fluid reservoirs, or they may be supplied by a common reservoir. Some brake subsystems are divided front/rear and some are diagonally separated. When you press the brake pedal, a push rod connected to the pedal moves the "primary piston" forward inside the master cylinder. The primary piston activates one of the two subsystems. The hydraulic pressure created, and the force of the primary piston spring, moves the secondary piston forward. When the forward movement of the pistons causes their primary cups to cover the bypass holes, hydraulic pressure builds up and is transmitted to the wheel cylinders. When the brake pedal retracts, the pistons allow fluid from the reservoir(s) to refill the chamber if needed.

Electronic sensors within the master cylinder are used to monitor the level of the fluid in the reservoirs, and to alert the driver if a pressure imbalance develops between the two systems. If the brake light comes on, the fluid level in the reservoir(s) should be checked. If the level is low, more fluid should be added, and the leak should be found and repaired as soon as possible. BE SURE TO USE THE RIGHT BRAKE FLUID FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Use of improper brake fluid can "contaminate the system". If this occurs, ALL of the seals in the brake system will need replacement, and that is usually a VERY expensive operation.


The brake warning system has been required standard equipment since 1970, and is connected to the master cylinder. It monitors differences in pressure in the brake lines of the two hydraulic sub-systems, and alerts the driver with a light if an imbalance occurs. When you turn the key to the Ignition position, the brake warning light on the dash comes on during a "self-test". You should not drive a car if the warning light does not come on during the startup self test.

The brake system is divided into two sub-systems to increase safety. A pressure differential switch, connected to the warning light, is positioned between the two. If a major leak occurs, and therefore pressure in one of the lines is sharply reduced, pressure from the other side forces a piston to move, activating the pressure differential switch and turns on the dashboard warning light.

There are two types of pressure differential switches; mechanical or hydraulic. Mechanical switches are activated by excessive brake travel. Hydraulic switches are activated by a difference in pressure between the front and rear system. When pressure in one of the lines is sharply reduced, pressure from the other side forces a piston to move. A plunger pin then drops into a groove in the piston, activating a switch that turns on a dashboard warning light.

The brake warning light is also connected to the brake fluid level sensors in the master cylinder reservoir(s). If the brake warning light comes on, the fluid level should be checked. If the level is low, more fluid should be added, and the leak should be found and repaired as soon as possible. BE SURE TO USE THE RIGHT FLUID. NEVER IGNORE THE BRAKE WARNING LAMP, AND ALWAYS NOTE WETHER IT WORKS DURING THE STARTING SELF-TEST.


Power brakes (also called "power assisted" brakes) are designed to use the power of the engine and/or battery to enhance braking power. The four most common types of power brakes are: vacuum suspended; air suspended; hydraulic booster, and electro-hydraulic booster. Most cars use vacuum suspended units (vacuum boosters), which employ a vacuum-powered booster device to provide added thrust to the foot pressure applied.

In a vacuum booster type system, pressure on the brake pedal pushes forward a pushrod connected to the pistons within the master cylinder. At the same time, the pushrod opens the vacuum-control valve so that it closes the vacuum port and seals off the forward half of the booster unit. The engine vacuum line then creates a low-pressure vacuum chamber. Atmospheric pressure in the control chamber then pushes against the diaphragm. The pressure on the diaphragm forces it forward, supplying pressure on the master cylinder pistons.

Hydraulic booster systems usually tap into the power steering pump's pressure, and use this power to augment pressure to the master cylinder. Electro-hydraulic booster systems use an electric motor to pressurize a hydraulic system which augments pressure to the master cylinder. This allows the vehicle to have power assisted brakes even if the engine quits.

You may wish to compare the difference between power and non-assisted braking in a safe area; while driving slowly, turn the ignition key off (don't turn it into the locked position, because the steering wheel will lock, which is highly unsafe.) As the car coasts along, press the brakes hard. The force of your foot is now the only thing stopping the car. The safe driver is always ready to apply the total force needed to stop their vehicle, even if the engine quits (thereby removing the power assist).


The cap on the brake fluid reservoir has a hole for air, or is vented, to allow the fluid to expand and contract without creating a vacuum or causing pressure. A rubber diaphragm goes up and down with the fluid level's pressure, and keeps out any dust or moisture. If the cap's seal becomes distorted, it usually indicates a brake fluid contamination problem.


Engine intake manifold vacuum is used for augmenting the foot's braking power in vacuum assisted power brakes. This vacuum is created by the pistons as they draw downward, sucking air into the cylinders. When you push the brake pedal down, the vacuum control valve lets the engine draw a vacuum in the front section of the booster unit. The atmospheric pressure on the other side of the diaphragm provides significant additional braking force.


Brake fluid is a special liquid for use in hydraulic brake systems, which must meet highly exact performance specifications. It is designed to be impervious to wide temperature changes and to not suffer any significant changes in important physical characteristics such as compressibility over the operating temperature range. The fluid is designed to not boil, even when exposed to the extreme temperatures of the brakes.

Different types of brake fluid are used in different systems, and should NEVER be mixed. Most cars use "DOT 3" or "DOT 4" brake fluid. Some newer cars use silicone brake fluids. These should NEVER be mixed together, because the seals in each car are designed to work with only their specific fluid types. For example, the mixing of "Silicone" brake fluid and conventional glycol based DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids should be avoided, as the two fluid types are not miscible (they will not mix together). DOT 3 brake fluids and DOT 4 brake fluids can be mixed.

One of the WORST things that can happen to your car is if the brake fluid becomes contaminated, because the seals are designed to work with only pure brake fluid. "System contamination" means that all of the piston seals and hoses are deteriorating, and therefore must be replaced, a MAJOR expense. So, be VERY careful what you put in the master cylinder reservoir!

It should be noted that brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint, and care should be used not to get it on your car's finish.

The brake fluid in your car should be changed every (See Owners Manual) to prevent corrosion of the braking system components.

The radiator is a device designed to dissipate the heat which the coolant has absorbed from the engine. It is constructed to hold a large amount of water in tubes or passages which provide a large area in contact with the atmosphere. It usually consists of a radiator core, with its water-carrying tubes and large cooling area, which are connected to a receiving tank (end cap) at the top and to a dispensing tank at the bottom. Side flow radiators have their "endcaps" on the sides, which allows a lower hood line.

In operation, water is pumped from the engine to the top (receiving) tank, where it spreads over the tops of the tubes. As the water passes down through the tubes, it loses its heat to the airstream which passes around the outside of the tubes. To help spread the heated water over the top of all the tubes, a baffle plate is often placed in the upper tank, directly under the inlet hose from the engine.

Sooner or later, almost everyone has to deal with an overheating car. Since water is readily available, it is not beyond the ability of most people to add some to their radiator if it's low. BUT PRECAUTIONS MUST BE TAKEN OR SERIOUS BURNS CAN RESULT. Here are a few pointers for dealing with an overheated radiator:

• Turn off the A/C. If the car is not seriously overheating, this will reduce the engine's temperature. The AC evaporator is located in front of the radiator, and it adds heat to the air going to your engine. The hotter the incoming air is, the less efficient the radiator will be.
  
• Turn on your heater (set on highest temperature setting, with blower on highest setting). This will be uncomfortable for you, but it will cool the engine by transferring the heat to the air. Roll down the windows, and remember how 'hot' you'll get if your engine needs replacement!
  
• If you're stuck in traffic, pull over and stop. Unless you're moving, very little cool air reaches the radiator. Open the hood and let the engine cool off. This takes time, so be patient. Use the time to go get a jug of water or antifreeze.
  
• Check the overflow tank coolant level. If it's empty, the radiator is probably low on coolant.
  
• Check the pressure of the system by wrapping a cloth around the upper radiator hose and squeezing it. If it's still under pressure (hot) it will not squeeze easily. Wait until it does.
  
  
• Place a large cloth over the radiator cap, and CAREFULLY release the pressure.DANGER: SERIOUS BURNS CAN RESULT FROM THE HOT COOLANT. IF IN DOUBT, WAIT UNTIL THE ENGINE COOLS COMPLETELY.
  
  
• If the coolant is low, start the engine, and slowly add the water or coolant necessary to fill it up. THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING. ADDING COOLANT TO A WARM ENGINE CAN CRACK THE BLOCK. By running the engine, the coolant keeps moving and reduces the chances of this type of damage occurring.
  

Water pumps come in many designs, but most include a rotating impeller, which forces the coolant through the engine block. In most rear wheel drive cars, the fan is installed on the end of the water pump shaft. Many water pumps have a spring-loaded seal to avoid leakage of water around the pump shaft. Modern pumps are fitted with pre-packed ball bearings, which are sealed at each end to eliminate the need for lubrication.

Impeller type water pumps must turn rapidly to be efficient, and worn or loose drive belts can permit slippage which is not easily detected.

Several cooling systems make use of a clear plastic container, which is connected to the overflow tube from the radiator. This container provides extra storage space for the coolant when it expands and is called the expansion, or overflow tank. It is also known as the coolant reservoir, or overflow canister.

As the engine heats up, the coolant inside it expands. Without the expansion tank, the coolant would flow out of the overflow tube and be lost from the cooling system onto the street. Instead, the coolant flows into the expansion tank.

Since a vacuum is created in the cooling system when the engine cools, the vacuum causes some of the coolant in the expansion tube to be sucked back into the system. Because a cooling system with an expansion tank is virtually a closed system, the coolant can flow between the system and the expansion tank as it expands and contracts. This way, no coolant is lost if the system is functioning properly.

Another function of the expansion tank is to remove air bubbles from the cooling system. Coolant without air-bubbles is much more efficient than coolant with air bubbles, because it absorbs heat much faster.

The advantage of the expansion tank is that while the level of coolant contained in it rises and falls, the radiator is always full.

Older cars can easily be fitted with expansion tanks, simply by mounting the tank near the radiator, connecting it to the overflow tube, and replacing the radiator cap.


The radiator cap acts as more than just a "lid" for your radiator; it keeps your engine cool by sealing and pressurizing the coolant inside it.

What makes the radiator cap special is that it is designed to hold the coolant in your radiator under a predetermined amount of pressure. If the coolant was not kept under pressure, it would start to boil, and soon you would have boiled all of your coolant away.

However, the radiator (or pressure) cap prevents this from happening by exerting enough pressure to keep the coolant from boiling. Normally, water (coolant) boils at 212 degrees F, but if the pressure is increased, the boiling temperature is also increased. Since the boiling point goes up when the pressure goes up, the coolant can be safely heated to a temperature above 212 degrees F without boiling.

What makes this important is that the higher the temperature of the coolant is, the greater the temperature gap between it and the air temperature is. This is the principle that causes the cooling system to work; the hotter the coolant is, the faster the heat in it moves to the radiator and the air passing by. So, a cooling system under pressure takes heat away from the engine faster, which makes it more efficient.

If your cooling system is under too much pressure, it can "blow its top!" To prevent this, the radiator cap has a pressure relief valve. The valve has a preset rating that allows it to take just up to a certain amount of pressure. When you turn the cap on the filler neck of the radiator, you seal the upper and lower sealing surfaces of the filler neck. The pressure relief valve spring is compressed against the lower seal when you lock the cap.

The radiator filler neck has an overflow tube right between the two sealing surfaces. If the pressure in the cooling system exceeds the preset rating of your cap, its pressure relief valve allows the lower seal to be lifted from its seat. Then the excess pressure (coolant,air) can squish through the overflow tube to the ground or the coolant reservoir.

Once enough pressure has been released (the caps preset rating), the pressure relief valve is again closed by the spring.

The pressure cap can be tested with a cooling system pressure tester, using an adapter, to make certain that it is living up to its pressure rating. It should be replaced if it fails the test.

Note: Most radiator pressure caps are not meant to be removed. Coolant should always be added through the expansion (overflow) tank. NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT ENGINE. REMOVING THE PRESSURE CAN CAUSE STEAM TO SHOOT OUT AND SERIOUSLY BURN YOU.


The reason the coolant goes into the radiator is to allow air to pass through it and cool the coolant. When you are driving fast enough, the air rushes through the grille of the car and passes through the radiator core. If you aren't driving fast enough to push air through the radiator, then the fan will pull the air through.

The fan improves cooling when you are driving at slow speeds, or if the engine is idling. It is usually mounted on the water pump shaft, and is turned by the same belt that drives the water pump and the alternator, although it can be mounted as an independent unit. Most independently mounted fans are electric.


The fan's activity is not always necessary, and it takes power from the engine to spin. For this reason a thermostatic control, or fan clutch, is often used to reduce drive torque when it isn't needed (variable-speed fan). A different type of fan uses centrifugal force to move its flexible plastic blades, by flattening them when the engine rpm is high (flexible-blade fan). The less angle the blade shave, the less power they use. The idea of these units is to save horsepower and reduce the noise the fan makes.

A fan can have from four to six blades to suck the air through the radiator. Often the radiator has a shroud for the fan to keep it from recirculating the same hot air that has collected behind the radiator. Many fans have irregularly spaced blades to reduce resonant noise.


Front-wheel drive engines mounted transversely usually use electric fans to cool the engine. The radiator is located in the usual place, but an electric motor drives the fan. A thermostatic switch is used to turn the fan on and off at predetermined temperature settings, which it senses. The exception to this is air conditioning. If you turn on the air conditioner, you bypass the thermostatic switch, and the fan runs continuously. If you turn off the air conditioner, the thermostatic switch is re-activated, and goes back to turning the fan on and off, according to its instructions. Many cars have one electric fan for normal cooling and a separate one just for when the air conditioner is on.

There are some really nice features about the electric fan. The nicest feature is that you don't have to keep an eye on the treacherous old fan belt -- there isn't one, so you don't have to worry about its health and fitness. It's also quieter, and less of a power drain on the engine. They also help your engine by continuing to cool it after it's turned off.


The fan (drive) belt wedges neatly into the different pulley grooves. The belt uses the tension and friction to turn the auxiliary devices.

The fan belt is usually V-shaped, so it is also called a V-belt. The fan belt friction comes from the sides of the belt and the sides of the pulley grooves to transmit power from one pulley to the other through the belt. Since the sides of the belt are used for transmission of power, the sides have very large surface areas. The reason that the belt does not slip is because of the wedging action of the belt as it curves into the pulley grooves.

Because your belts are so essential to so many parts of your engine, it is a very good idea to periodically check their condition. Check for cracking, splitting, or fraying, especially before summer. Also, check the tightness of the belt and have it adjusted according to your owner's manual specifications. Belts have a tendency to loosen with use. On the other hand, you don't want the belt to be too tight, or it will put too much pressure on the accessory bearings and cause them to die an early death. If a belt is over three years old, have it replaced even if it looks good.